TRUE Africa

From #TeamNappy to box braids documented via Snapchat

Having short hair was an act of emancipation from western beauty standards and an affirmation that my black hair was beautiful.

But there comes a time, where rocking that TWA gets dull and your busy schedule won’t allow you that much styling time.

I reached an agreement with myself: I was discouraged from getting a big ‘fro à la Solange Knowles when I realised the amount of work it required. The closest-to-natural solution was clear. After six years of being a proud member of team #NappyHair, I decided to go back to my basics and rock box braids. Here’s an account of this painful, awkward and yet beautiful journey.

I had to look for a salon.

Unlike the lucky ones who know how to get their hair done or have a hairdresser they visit on the regular, I had to look for a salon. A friend suggested that I just go to Tooting (south London) and choose a salon by price. I unfortunately met with the limits of this technique back when I had dreadlocks and experienced a Nigerian man butcher my hair.

It’s not worth getting trust issues over a salon and I was not willing to take this risk again: finding the right hairdresser is as important as finding the right partner in life.

It requires certain standards. I relied on my friends’ recommendations and after a few phone calls, set up an appointment. Prior to D-Day, I went to Brixton to buy the main material of my future new look: hair extensions.

Acquiring hair was not something I had done in years, thus I celebrated it on Snapchat.

A friend replied telling me that ‘we’ usually keep these things secret. On the contrary, I think it is because we keep certain things on the down low that we are often dumbfounded when facing the most common cases of cultural appropriation.

Buying hair is not a shame.

Sisters. Buying hair is not a shame. Let it be known that it was our thing before Becky and her friends make it the next topic of a Vogue article. Be proud of it before it becomes the topic of a new Chris Rock film subtly trying to teach you wrong from right.

Our male-dominant culture celebrates barbershops as the sanctum of black masculinity but a similar role is held by hair salons. They hold an unspoken place in each black woman’s life. As she was plaiting my hair, Aunty Peace (aka my Accra-born and bred, gospel-singing, multitasking hairdresser) was also taking care of three girls who kept on complaining about her harsh hand.

I used to be them a few years back, an impatient, pain-sensitive child who did not understand how women could sit and get their hair done without a word. I have the answer now: pretty hurts and we all learn to deal with it eventually (truth: grinding your teeth actually helps).

My years of seeing my hairdresser as the great torturer of my scalp are long gone. Instead, I realised that it only takes a few moments before the woman who plaits your hair becomes a sort of therapist you do not really have to speak to.

Getting braids done is a moment to reflect.

Six hours and a lot of teeth grinding later, I found myself walking out of the salon with +60cm hair and fresh self-confidence. Getting braids done is a moment to reflect on how much you’ve grown as an individual, as you stare at yourself being transformed for long hours. It is an empowering occasion to reclaim a tradition and celebrate our culture.

They are heavy and make your scalp cry.

My new hair glow lasted until came the solid realisation that I now had long hair and didn’t know how to deal. As much as I pride myself in having *almost* reached Janet Jackson’s level of slay in Poetic Justice, I will not lie: going from short hair to long hair is a real struggle.

They are heavy and make your scalp cry out for help for a good week. I have also managed to get my hair stuck in a door and countlessly entangle my braids with earrings, headphones and necklaces.

With long hair also comes a series of interrogations, going from ‘what styles can I do or try?’ to ‘how am I going to sleep with bae?’ and ‘what if one of them falls out whilst I’m walking?’. And there is the obvious yet still excruciating moment when non-black people will feel the urge to touch your hair and ask you a thousand questions about how you got it done.

My mum once taught me what is now my favourite response: